How to get fuller lips for your lip shape with makeup

Jul 22, 2019 | Lips

Do you have thin lips and you’re not sure how to line them?

Or maybe you have an uneven lip shape?

Are you struggling when lining your lips to look bigger?

Not every one of us is blessed with full and plumped by nature lips. Lip shapes can be thin, uneven, small, big, pointy and round.. and the list goes on. There is a corrective technique for every lip shape’s problem, and yes, even the thinnest lips can look full and plump, when the right technique is applied.

First, you need to know the parts defining your lip’s shape:

  • Cupid’s bow : The middle of the upper lip
  • The natural lip line: the line that acts as a border to your lips
  • The corner of your lips: The point where your upper and lower lips meet on each side
  • The teardrop: The middle of the lower lip

To get started, use a scrub. Scrubbing your lips will make the blood flow into them and give them a fuller appearance. There are endless ways to scrub your lips but I’ll make it easy on you with these two techniques:

  • You can exfoliate your lips by using a toothbrush and lip balm. Apply a thick layer of lip balm onto your lips and gently brush your lips in circular motion.
  • A sugar and oil paste. Leave the mixture for a few seconds then gently massage it in circular motion and rinse it with warm water. Pat your lips dry.

After exfoliating, try this cool trick. Add 2 to 3 drops of peppermint oil to your lips. It stimulates blood flow to the lip area causing a bit of temporary swelling, thus making fuller lips.

Whatever technique you choose don’t forget to apply a lip balm to moisturize your lips.

You can try Lip Enhancer if you wish, it gives a temporary plumping effect.

Wipe off the lip balm gently or wait for it to dry completely.

The key to achieve that fuller lip look is by using a lip liner. A simple product with a great result!

It can change the way you look if used properly. I’m going to show you how you can create that plump lip effect without looking like a cartoon character. And no, we’re not gonna use the gloss!

When you overline your lips here is what you need to know, you really want to focus the overlining in the centre of your lip, so above the cupid’s bow and below the middle part of your lower lip. You always want to meet the lipliner as you get down to the corners of your mouth to the natural lip line.

  • Create a new Cupid’s bow: Using a sharp lip liner just a little bit darker than the lipstick’s color you’re planning to use, go slightly above your cupid’s bow. Follow the same shape just take it a little bit higher.
  • If you have an extremely thin upper lip with an unnoticeable cupid’s bow, using your lip liner draw a new cupid’s bow right above your actual one. If there is a gap left between the two just fill it with your lip liner.
  • Follow the natural line of your lip when you outline down to the corners of your mouth.
  • Compare both sides of your upper lips. If they are not even, correct the straighter line and make it look curvier.


Now that we have finished the top lip, we’re gonna do the bottom lip. The same thing applies to the bottom lip. You’re gonna overline just under the center of your lower lip and meet the lip liner to your  natural line in the corners.


  • Use a matte lipstick to fill your lips. It disguises the fact that you’ve drawn over the edge of your lips and it doesn’t reflect light, it catches the light as one solid block of color. Always remember Matte works the best when you overline your lips. If you use gloss or satin lipstick you highlight the top of your natural lip line. Anything that’s forward reflects light. Naturally your natural cupid’s bow will come forward rather than your fake cupid’s bow where you overlined. By using the gloss, light will reflect on your natural cupid’s bow that you were trying to hide!
  • After the lipstick dries, go back with the lipliner one more time and redefine the shape of your lips.
  • Grab your concealer brush and use a foundation that has the same color of your skin tone to clean around your lips so they look crisp and sharp.


Time to craft fuller lips for your lip shape! Let’s check the common Lip shapes and Corrective Techniques for each of them:


Thin lips

Both upper and lower lips are thin and almost no noticeable Cupid’s bow.

Correction: With a lip liner outline just a little bit outside the natural upper and lower line of your lips. Trace the rest of the natural lip line with slightly opening your mouth and work your way to the corners. Fill the lips with a lipstick that has the same color of your lip liner. Use light to medium lipstick color to make lips look larger. Use a little bit of a bronzer on a small brush to add shadow just beneath the center point of your bottom lip, Finish with a gloss or highlight on the centres of your lips to give an illusion of a fuller pout.


Almost no noticeable Cupid’s Bow

Create an overlined Cupid’s Bow using a lip liner that’s a bit darker than your natural lip color, connect the tip of the cupid’s bow to the corner of your mouth on each side. Fill with matte color then follow the steps according to your lip shape.


Thin Lower Lip

Correction: Do a big closed-lip smile to expand the lip fully then line your lower lip. This way, you’ll have a maximized outline without looking overdrawn. Add another layer of bright color or highlight to the centre only. Add shadow beneath the centre of the lower lip.


Thin Upper Lip

Corrective Technique: Use a liner to draw a new cupid’s bow on the upper lip just above the natural one. Trace the rest of the natural lip line or work your way to the corner if no line is visible. Add a light to medium matte lipstick shade.


Thick Lips

Outline the natural line of your lip line with a neutral brown color. In order to deemphasize the big lip, use a neutral brown lip liner and draw within the lip lines to make the lip look smaller. Trace over the lip and liner applied with a nude color.


Small Lips

Overline both the upper and lower lips, even above the natural line until you  reach the desired shape. Fill in lips with light to medium matte lipstick color. Add a bright color, shimmer or gloss to the centers of the upper and lower lips as desired.


Uneven lips

The two sides of your lips don’t look symmetrical.

Cover the lips with a base like foundation and set with powder. Use the lip liner to redraw the lips. Draw the correct side first, and then redraw the uneven part to match the correct part.


Downturned lips

The distinguishing part of this type of lips is the drooping corners. You need to give your mouth a lift. Correct the natural sloping of the upper lip by lifting the corners slightly upwards. Line your upper lip to the ideal shape then use foundation to mask the part of your lip that falls outside your outline.

You can always apply a gloss to give your lips a 3D effect, but you need to follow some rules so that your lips look naturally full:

  • Use a lip liner that has a very close color to your lip, or a universal color
  • If you’re using a colored gloss, use a lip liner close to the color of the gloss
  • Never use a gloss on overdrawn lips. This way light will not reflect your natural cupid’s bow
  • Remember that dark colors give a smaller pout while light colors give a larger pout, even on a gloss. So use them carefully. Learn how to create Ombre’ lips here.
  • You can always go over your line with a clean lip brush to smooth it over and make sure it’s blended.

If you want to learn how to pair your eyeshadow with your lipstick check it out here. Did you ever try to correct your lip’s shape before applying your favorite lipstick? Let me know in the comments..


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