Read This if You Struggle with a Cut Crease!

Jul 22, 2019 | Eyes

With the power to create more definition to your eyes, this beauty trick is one to add to your staple of skills. Follow this tutorial where I show you two ways with two skill levels and you’ll never look at it the same again!

What is a Cut Crease?

It’s a technique used to define the crease by “cutting” across it with a contrasting eyeshadow color and no blending on the lid, to fake the illusion of bigger eyes and added depth. Whether your eyes are small, large, slanted or hooded, a cut crease will lift your eyes, open them up for a beautiful, exceptional, out of the ordinary look.

 

Before the cut, add Transition Color

First, as a beginner, I want you to start using sticky tapes whenever you apply a transition color on your eyelid. This creates a clean application on the outer corner of your eye and minimizes the possibility of the shadow going too far on this area. After adding the sticky tapes across both outer corners of your eyes, use a fluffly blending brush to apply a transition color that is close or slightly darker than your skin tone over the crease and through the socket of your eye. You don’t have to be particularly neat here because we will be going back in with the concealer doing the cut crease, but do blend it out in windshield motion as best as possible. Blend everything out with a bigger fluffy brush until everything is soft and nicely diffused.

  • With your eye open, realizing where your natural crease line is, sketch out a rough line creating a natural arch with a brown brow pencil or brown pencil eyeliner just a bit above your natural crease line (somewhere in the middle between your crease line and the end of your browbone, create a line in the area marked as “above crease” in the graphic on the right), with very slight strokes and a very steady hand). Start from above your inner corner till your outer V then extend the line a bit towards your eyebrow without touching it.
  • Start tracing over the line you created with a warm brown eyeshadow using a small blending pencil brush, smudging it upwards. Take your time, it will all come together.
  • Use a bigger blending brush with a lighter eyeshadow over the line and diffuse it slightly upwards. Go back and forth with the dark and light shade until you achieve a satisfying result.
  • Now use your pencil brush with an even darker brown shade and trace again over the line buffing it out. This will give the cut crease more contrast and definition. You can go with the darkest color all the way on the line you created from the outer corner of your eye till the inner corner or you can achieve a softer look keeping it only at the outer corner.
To achieve a softer look follow these guidelines:
  • Using a darker eyeshadow color apply it on a small blending brush on the outer corner of your eye on the same sketch line you created, towards the inner corner with whatever is left on the brush (Do not apply dark color on the inner corner or else the look won’t be soft, just use whatever is left on the brush from the outer corner). This keeps the look softer on the inner corner and more defined on the outer corner rather than more defined on the whole. Finish with buffing out the shadows again with a bigger blending brush.
  • Highlight your browbone with an ivory or slightly white mat or shimmer shadow.

Now the scary part..

  • Bring your small flat shader brush or lip brush, dip it in concealer, start tracing at the edge of the line you created little bits at a time to make sure that the line is really sharp. Continue tracing the whole line then fill your eyelid with concealer. Breathe! The hardwork is done!
  • Using a little flat brush set your concealer with pressed powder. To do that, keep your eye closed and pat a little pressed powder on the eyelid ( you can use a powder puff instead of the brush, but be extra careful not to touch the dark line you created above the crease). This is to ensure that your concealer doesn’t feel wet to the touch. You want to make sure that it’s dry to the touch and only when it’s dry it is protected from creasing. This also makes it easier for the shadows added later on to blend. It takes time and practice you won’t master applying it overnight. Just keep practicing and I guarantee you’ll get there.
  • Finish your look with the perfect winged liner and mascara, or false lashes

Now if you struggle with drawing the line on the perfect spot to achieve the cut, you may start using the following technique I’m about to walk you through, and once you feel comfortable go back to the previous technique to hone your skills!

 

Create a cut crease with this genius trick

A trick that has helped me create a cut crease at first attempts with it. It’s so genius not a lot of people know about it. Cut creases can be really easy with it and it saves you quite a good amount of time.

Start with a medium synthetic shader brush and dip it into the concealer covering it on both sides. Close your eye, then start applying  across the area on your lid that’s just close to your lashline right to the inner corner. Do not apply it all over the lid. Open your eye, roll your eye upwards and in all directions.. Notice that the concealer created a line of the natural arch of your eye without risking concealer transfer, because you placed the concealer right from the start close to the lashline.

Try not to get concealer on your lashes. If the concealer touched your lashes it might go up your crease and create some fine lines, don’t worry about them, they can get fixed later.

Now that we’ve got the line, use it as a guideline as to where your cut is going to go.

Having your arch as a guideline, Keep filling your eyelid with the concealer halfway to 3/4th  on your lid if you want to achieve a half cut crease, and all the way towards your outer V if you want to achieve a full cut crease.

Bring a small shader brush and pat your eyeshadow gently over the concealer that you have just applied.

Remember the fine lines that popped when you looked upwards! Now it’s time to get rid of them and craft your edgy cut crease!

Take a clean blending brush and gently rub over the concealer lines that have gone above the cut crease line. With the same brush, take a bit of the transition color and run it over the edge of the line.

To create more definition around the crease area, take a defined angle brush, dip it onto black or dark brown eyeshadow and tap off all the excess. Run along the edge of the line very lightly to define it.

Bring on the smallest blending brush again and blend on that dark color very slightly.

Keep going back and forth with the dark and light color until you achieve the perfect diffused cut.

Now you can fill your eyelid with glitter or keep it simple with a light mat or shimmer shadow. Complete the look with a nice winged liner.

What  is your experience with cut creases? Are they scary or challenging? Let me know how you feel about them!

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